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Most of the socks I knit, I don't use a pattern, I just have a "formula" in my head. It depends on the size of the sock, the yarn and needles used, but the basic mathematical formula is always the same.
But first, some inspiration! These are ankle socks for me made with wonderful Regia Ringel in the "clown" colourway:
A few notes:
- I tend to use smaller needles than most patterns call for -- I love a nice firm sock fabric. Adjust the needle sizes to your own preference.
- All these numbers are "fudgeable" to suit your preferences for fit and design
- The gusset numbers are the number of stitches you pick up at each gusset
- The toe stitches are the number of stitches you would end up with on two needles for grafting
Yarn Weight Sock Sport Worsted Needle Size 2.25 mm 3 mm 3.75 mm Gauge/Inch 9 St/12 R 6.5 St/10 R 4 St Sock Size Women's 7.5 W 7.5 Men's 10 # St. Cast On 100% 68 52 44 # St. Heel Flap 50% 34 26 20 # St. Pick Up @ Gusset 25/25% 17 13 10 # St. Graft Toe 25% * 20 12 20 * fudgeable number -- sometimes I find the toes too pointy and narrow, so I'll increase the percentage to 30 as I've done here with the sock yarn toe number.
If you are going to change the toe decreases, you can easily figure out -where- to start the toe decreases by counting how many decreases you will need to make from your 100% number to the ending toe number. Then figure out how many rows you need to decrease that amount. Using your row gauge (easily measured on the top foot of the sock) you can calculate how long your actual toe decreases will be. You are decreases four stitches per round and usually there are two rounds per decrease (one decreasing round, one round worked even - no decreases). Your total foot length minus the toe decrease rounds will be the point that you begin the toe decreases.
Heel Flaps & Turning:
I make a basic heel flap using a slip stitch repeat on the knit side. Makes a nice firm, durable flap. The formula for turning the flap, usable on any number of stitches is like this:
Starting on the purl side, slip 1, purl to midway plus 2 more, P2Tog, P1, TURN
Slip 1, K5, K2Tog, K1, TURN
Slip 1, P6, P2Tog, P1, TURN
Slip 1, K7, K2Tog, K1, TURN
... continue in this fashion, always working one stitch more than the previous row. You will repeat until all the stitches on the heel flap have been worked.
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